
The dunes
26,300 km² of sand running into India's Thar.

Desert · Punjab
Cholistan is a desert of about 26,000 square kilometres in southern Punjab, extending from Bahawalpur towards the Indian border, where it continues as the Thar. It follows the dry bed of the Hakra river and holds a chain of medieval mud and brick forts, of which Derawar, with walls about 30 metres high, is the best preserved.
Local people call the desert Rohi. Settlement depends on tobas, shallow rainwater ponds, and on herding camels, cattle and sheep; the region supplies a large share of Punjab's camel population. Around 400 archaeological sites along the Hakra course record settlement contemporary with the Indus Valley Civilisation. The Cholistan Jeep Rally, held near Derawar each February, is the largest motorsport event in Pakistan.
Square fort with forty bastions, visible for kilometres.
White marble mosque beside Derawar, built 1849.
Islamgarh, Mirgarh, Jamgarh and others along the Hakra.
Rainwater ponds that determine where herders camp.

26,300 km² of sand running into India's Thar.

The dry channel of the ancient Hakra river.

Lahore's river, and the boundary of the old Mughal city.

The river of the Heer Ranjha and Sohni Mahiwal folk tales.

Barrages at Marala, Trimmu and Panjnad steer the canal system.

Simmered overnight; a Lahore breakfast with naan and ginger.

Phajja's paye, Gawalmandi chaat and charcoal-grilled kebabs.

Multan's dense saffron and nut sweet, sold in tins.

Completed 1673; its courtyard holds about 100,000 people.

UNESCO listed, with the Sheesh Mahal and Alamgiri Gate.

Built 1541–1548 by Sher Shah Suri on the Grand Trunk Road.

The Cholistan Desert Jeep Rally each February.

Nomadic families moving between tobas, or rain ponds.

Wintering birds and the chinkara gazelle of the desert.
November to February; summer temperatures exceed 45°C.
About 2 hours by road from Bahawalpur to Derawar, partly on desert track.
About 26,000 square kilometres, continuing across the border as the Thar desert.
A large square fort near Bahawalpur with forty bastions and walls about 30 metres high, held by the Abbasi Nawabs.
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